Fixing an Ex-Cell XR2600 Pressure Washer --

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Offline goodfellow

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Fixing an Ex-Cell XR2600 Pressure Washer --
« on: October 08, 2013, 04:25:07 PM »
I didn't need another project, but this one was forced on me. My dear wife volunteered my pressure washer to one of her "good" friends to pressure wash their lake house deck. That was almost a year ago. I've been on her since May to get in touch with said friend and get that machine back because I wanted to wash our own deck and house siding to get it ready for the winter season.

Long story short, we finally got it back last weekend. I knew as soon as I saw it that I was in trouble with this machine. It was most certainly not properly stored and looked like crap. I told my wife that this will be the LAST time we "loan" out equipment to anyone. It never works out and I always have to fix it after it comes back.

I cleaned the machine with soap and water and then tried to start it -- WRONG!! Wouldn't turn over. I took the gas line off and there was sludge water in the line. So a good bet is that the water is also in the carburetor. Plus the pump itself makes some noise when turned manually.

So time to take this XR2600 (2600 psi) pressure washer apart. Damn I hate this unnecessary work  frustratedx

First up is the gas tank and the pressure pump shroud -- funny thing is that to get the shroud off, I needed to remove the water inlet and pressure outlet so that the shroud could slide off the pump.

The lower hose is removed -- which I guess is to prevent the pressure washer equivalent to "water hammer" in a house plumbing system. Then the pump can be simply unbolted from the engine -- it's only four simple bolts

Next comes the fuel tank -- three bolts; two on top and one on the bottom

Everything removed and ready for cleaning

Now comes the carburetor and the idle and choke linkages.

Removed the carburetor and now it's "show-time" to see what's inside. First the bowl is removed by unscrewing the gasketed bolt on the bottom of the float bowl. The bowl was full of water and gas.

Next, the float and needle valve is removed by simply pulling the link pin

Look at all the sludge on the outside of the inlet tube.

Inside tube is the jet and the venturi tube and it's full of sludge -- clogged tight.

The tube was stuck tight, so I used a small "easy out" to catch it and pull it out. This is about the only time these "easy outs" have ever been useful.

The venturi tube has a series of very small holes drilled into it -- four rows of three holes, and all but one was clogged.

All these pieces (except the float) get soaked in carb cleaner and then they go into the solvent tank for a hew hours.

The fuel drain plug on the float bowl was rusted shut. Had the damn fool drained the tank and carburetor, I would not be in this situation. Here it's being reinstalled after a good cleaning and polishing.

I'll let things soak and get back on this tomorrow -- just too pi$$ed off right to keep going on this crap. I looked up the cost of a new carb, and at $18 shipped, it may be the best course to simply replace it -- given all the gunk and corrosion I found in this thing.

Message to Fatfillup!!! What do you think is appropriate to condition this pump. The grinding noise was mostly grit and dirt on the exterior of the pump mechanism. I really can't assess the condition of the pump, other then it moves and I hear/see no evidence of obstructions.

Onward --

« Last Edit: October 08, 2013, 11:36:58 PM by goodfellow »


Offline goodfellow

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Re: Fixing an Ex-Cell XR2600 Pressure Washer --
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2013, 08:47:05 PM »
Just an update on this thread --

I cleaned the carb thoroughly, but the damage was done. When I put it back on the engine it started sputtering and lurching and had very erratic idle. Luckily I found a cheap new carburetor on ebay for $18 shipped. That carb just needed a small mod to make it work with this engine. The engine fired right up and idled like a watch with this new carb.

The OEM was a GC-160 carb, while the replacement carb was a GCV-160. The new "V" series is definitely a cheaper aftermarket item than the OEM GC series, but at that price it just pays to replace the carb every few years if you're not too thorough on maintenance.

Tomorrow I'll fire the pump up to see if this thing can still build pressure and if the unloader still works.

I'll soak the old carb in a 2:1 solution of pine-sol to water for a few days, and will keep it as a spare -- for parts if need be.

I sprayed the pump with some WD40 and it worked very well. It's idling stead, the unloader unloads, and the pressure washer has good pressure again. I drained all the water from the pump, and all  the gas from the carb via the little side drain (it's not as convenient as the GC 160 carb, but works fine).

Ready for next season -- total cost for the this repair was actually only $18 for the carburetor.

« Last Edit: October 12, 2013, 04:09:30 PM by goodfellow »