Author Topic: trailer hitch build  (Read 2848 times)

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Offline strik9

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trailer hitch build
« on: November 22, 2010, 03:12:41 PM »
We needed a hitch to put on the truck to pull our trailer now.  We could have bought one at AZ but that would be no fun.  We used 1" stock and a solid bar we had in the scrap pile.

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trailer hitch build
« on: November 22, 2010, 03:12:41 PM »

Offline strik9

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2010, 03:15:43 PM »
And more pics

Offline strik9

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2010, 03:19:29 PM »
More......

Offline strik9

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2010, 03:24:39 PM »
And even more pics.....  I welded that up to the standard my boss likes, deep V cuts filled with  molten steel at the tip of the welding rod.   I used 7018 rods on a Miller tri-phase  industrial welder, I forgot the  model number, sorry.

Offline sk farmer

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2010, 03:33:17 PM »
you guys grind down the high spots for finish and then slap some paint on it? that would never fly with ap. seriously though, that looks like a nice heavy tailer and hitch. my question though, why not use a ball or pintle style hitch or are they not common? that must not be the style of hitch on the truck curently has  as it looks like you are also fashioning the truck part also.
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Offline Fins/413

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #5 on: November 22, 2010, 03:46:58 PM »
Looks like fun you going to pull a tank or something.
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Offline rusty

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2010, 04:17:28 PM »
I like projects like this. Making stuff and making what you have or can scrounge work always interests me.
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Offline strik9

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2010, 08:19:13 PM »
Simply put, it is the design I was told to build.  We overkill on all projects for fun actually.  I like stuff that will outlast me by a century or so. 

It is strong enough and thick enough to last my lifetime.  The trailer will have a diesel welder, yet to be bought, and a supply-battery box mounted to it.  We really overkilled this by a longshot but it will ensure no future repairs for a good while.

My boss is pleased therefore my wallet will be pleased on saturday.

Offline rusty

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #8 on: November 22, 2010, 09:02:46 PM »
That is the way things should be made. The modern, wore out as soon as you buy it, building style leaves me cold.
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Offline Aunt Phil

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #9 on: November 23, 2010, 01:18:01 AM »
It appears someone is a bit concerned about building a hitch that will make theft of the trailer a bit more difficult. 

Just an observation Strike, when you clamp a piece in the drillpress vice, you'll be far better served by putting a piece of wood under the piece being drilled, and a couple between the piece and the jaws when your workpiece is uneven.  Being down below the jaws as is shown in your picture causes a lot of drills to wind up broken.

What accommodation is there in that hitch for twisting between tow vehicle and trailer? 
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Offline strik9

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #10 on: November 23, 2010, 04:04:20 PM »
Phil, actually price was the biggest concern and  quality (in this case controlled totally by us) had to be high.  My boss was not impresssed with the AZ offerings much.  He wanted solid bar and no hollow tubes.

We are going to adjust the hitch hole as needed without making it sloppy when its time to use the trailer. 
Today we put a hole in the pin for a small bolt to pass and welded a chain to it to prevent loss.

The support post has been replaced with a screw adjusted setup also.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2010, 08:02:07 PM by strik9 »

Offline Aunt Phil

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Re: trailer hitch build
« Reply #11 on: November 24, 2010, 12:45:07 AM »
If the round bar is long enough, rather than locking it into position on the tow vehicle set it up with a collar so it can rotate and you'll save a lot of reworks.  I did a similar coupler setup on a light trailer 25 years ago that employs a 1 1/2 pipe inside of a 2" pipe to allow rotation.  You can actually spin the coupler 360° and it also moves in and out about an inch to activate a brake master cylinder on the trailer.  The design was so good it has lasted a long time.

If you are the lucky weldor who gets to rebuild that hole after it wallows out, just burn it open, stick the right size carbon rod for the pin in the hole and weld it up.  When it cools you can knock the carbon out and have near a perfect hole. 

Unstandard couplers on welder trailers are pretty much the norm.  People figure the thief stealing the welder won't be able to hook up, and forget to think the man stealing the welder just might be able to weld up an adapter himself.
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