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Restorations / Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 3-18
« Last post by goodfellow on March 20, 2018, 05:49:23 PM »
Thanks Herb -- going on nine years working on this project. If I were retired it would've probably taken longer ---   :lol2:  :lol2:
Restorations / Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 3-18
« Last post by Uncle Buck on March 19, 2018, 02:43:50 PM »
Man you have really come a long way with this GF!
Restorations / Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 2-23
« Last post by goodfellow on March 18, 2018, 04:40:19 PM »
There are lots of little details left to do as well as some more trim and headlight bucket painting. I'll have to wait for a warmer day to paint, but in the interim I tackled the torsion bar splash shield (or protective shield as listed in the catalogs). I don't know why they call it protective? It's basically a thin sheet of soft aluminum.

First off, these things are expensive from the usual on-line sources, but there is a marvelous company in Delaware that a die hard Jaguar nut started in order to fill the need for quality restoration sheetmetal and trim pieces -- The company is called Monocoque Metalworks -- and is run by a talented gent named Chuck. He produces panels of much better quality and fit AND price than the traditional sources. Case in point; these splash shields. The usual sources wanted between $145 and $170 (not inc. shipping) for these two panels. Chuck makes them in-house and ships both shields for $75. Wish I would have known about this company sooner -- they make excellent replacement panels and they are growing.

I also installed the chip deflector shield for the air cleaner -- this is where these pesky frame brackets come into play. I painted these things last week and they hold these shields (among other things) in place on the sub-frame members.

The torsion bar shields installed with regular 7/16" screws and nuts -- and they are an exact fit. No trimming was required (as is usually the case with other "OEM" sourced panels).

Finally I addressed the low pressure and fill hoses of the power steering system. The low pressure hose attaches to the rack and pinion with a fitting and returns fluid to the frame mounted reservoir. The fill hose is just a plain oil resistant hose that feeds the pump (no fitting required -- just hose clamps). The original hoses were hard and damaged and the fitting on the low pressure hose was crusty.

I removed it, cleaned and painted it, and ordered some replacement hose.

I will not be using a clamp (as the factory hose did), but rather a ferrule connection to make it more presentable and sturdy. The ferrule needed to be modified a bit, but this will be a much better solution.

This week I'll try to paint the last bits and pieces, and get the undercarriage splash shields prepped and installed.


i am a bachelor for a week so i am going to do some home improvements.
I ordered some parts from rock auto and Ebay, but they wont come before the weekend.
Very interesting. So 10 to 18 years of use before they got brittle?

Yes, the torch was used quite frequently lately (after sitting idle for a almost a year) and it just started to leak at two of the joints. In my case that's about 16 years of use -- not bad.
Very interesting. So 10 to 18 years of use before they got brittle?
Time to upgrade this old 15ft. torch. I installed it in the early 2000's and it's starting to leak and the hoses are getting brittle at the connections. In fact the power hose has a crack in it and a small leak -- that's not good. I have ordered a new 25ft complete WP-20 flexible TIG torch rig, but I'll rebuild this one as a spare.

This is something that anyone can do with basic tools --

Water cooled Torches have three connections - 1) water-in, 2) gas, and 3) a combination power/water return hose. In most cases they are easily identified.

Here is an old Weldcraft WP-20 torch -- I've patched it for some years now, but my original wire clamps held. Now the water-in hose and the power/water return hose are brittle and leaking behind the clamps.

The power/water return hose is easy to ID -- it's the one with the large brass connection (both on the torch body and the hose end). The water-in and power/water return hoses are usually a larger diameter than the gas hose.

The three torch hoses terminate in three places on the welding rig. In addition, the two water lines connect with reverse threaded fittings, while the gas line connects with right hand threads.

Water cooler connection is reverse threaded 11/16" (notice the characteristic check mark on the fitting indicting reverse thread)

The power/water-return line connects to the welder lug and is a 13/16" reverse fitting.

The gas line connects to the gas solenoid and is a 11/16" standard right hand thread

On the torch, the power/water return are the larger fittings that are standardized 1/4" size (for US manufacturers, but on the newer imports they are 7mm -- the fitting threads themselves are the same between OEM US and Asian WP-20 import clones).

Here's the culprit -- broken and cracked. It can't be cut because underneath is a braided power line surrounding a water return inner hose. Hence I used high strength heat shrink tubing to patch the section and then made wire clamps to seal it. The wire clamps are simply stainless steel wire wrapped twice around the tube and twist tightened with a pair of slip joint pliers.

The gas and water inlet supply line are simply plastic tubing that I trimmed to get rid of the cracked pieces and refitted to the torch.

Since we already know the power/water return hose is the one with the brass fitting, the two remaining tubes must be gas and water inlet. You ID the gas fitting on the torch by blowing into the tubes and checking for air at the torch head.

This is the new torch -- notice that beside the larger brass power/water return fitting, the other two fittings also have brass ferrules. Those ferrules are used on more  modern torch supply lines that have appropriate fitting. My lines don't and are just plastic. The ferrules can be unscrewed and set aside -- I don't need them.

First step to a new torch is to slip the handle on the lines (this is often overlooked and there is no way to attach the handle afterwards)

Next, the remaining hoses are attached to the appropriate torch tubes -- I used a heat gun to slight heat the plastic tubes and it makes them slip on the fittings much easier. Then the fittings are wrapped twice around with SS wire and tightened with the pliers. It takes a feel -- too tight and the wire breaks; too loose and it leaks. It's not hard, but a few tries may be needed.

I checked all the fittings for leaks and the gas with soap bubbles -- all good. Slide the handle back on and it's good to go as a workable spare.

The new torch body cost $11 on ebay and it's a big improvement over the original WP unit that I had -- much more ergonomic. 

Restorations / Fixing the E-Type headlight bucket --
« Last post by goodfellow on February 28, 2018, 06:34:22 PM »
I needed to strip these buckets for paint and although the blast cabinet did a good job, it did reveal a rust hole and a previous repair in the one bucket. The hole wasn't fixed properly the last time someone worked on it, and they just filled it in with putty --

To make matters worse they ground the flange too thin and now there's a crack along the length of the rust hole.

Nothing left to do but straighten the flange and weld in a new piece. Only problem is that this is really thin steel -- I'm guessing 22 gauge and welding this stuff isn't really possible with a MIG. TIG welding is the only option.

I cut out the offending section and fitted a new piece of 22 gauge -- this is really fiddly work. The cut was made with a Dremel diamond cut-off wheel.

Then the new piece was fit as close as possible to get some good TIG welds in there without burning through this paper thin material.

I used a 1/16" tungsten at 55 Amps to stitch it in -- It's like doing freaking surgery. I'm not used to TIG welding stuff this small, but it did come out OK.

So, what was supposed to be an hour or two of media blasting work, turned into an entire afternoon of stitch TIG welding a darn "splinter" of steel into that bucket.

Hope the other bucket looks better when I blast it tomorrow.

Onward --

Restorations / Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 2-20
« Last post by goodfellow on February 23, 2018, 06:30:22 PM »
Started to go through some of the last boxes and found many small items that were always shoved into the "I'll do it later category!", but now they need to get done. This RH inner fender shield needed to be stripped, disassembled, and straightened.

The rubber seal on top is trash, and a new one is on order -- but the clamping strip and side anchor bracket are totally rusted. New ones will have to be fabricated out of 18ga steel

I used the old propane torch to strip the old undercoat and then it was off to the blast cabinet for a good cleaning. After that, it received two coats of etching primer and it was rebuild and painted in rubberized undercoat and hammered paint. It's cure for a week and then get hit with IH Red body color.

Lastly I needed to clean and strip these aluminum frame mounting brackets -- they mostly hold undercarriage and torsion bar splash shields to the square tubular subframe. The media blasting did a great job on this aluminum alloy the brackets were immediately ready for etching primer and paint.

Black Valspar enamel is perfect for these brackets -- very tough stuff.

Not that many frame and engine compartment parts left to go.

Restorations / Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 1-28
« Last post by goodfellow on February 20, 2018, 01:51:10 PM »
Not very exciting, but necessary. These rear window and door seal molding channels were removed from the body because there was a lot of rust hiding beneath them. They needed to be straightened, stripped and painted. It's a pain to straighten them because they are very flimsy.

The rear window channels are riveted and glued to the outside of the window opening, but first the old adhesive needs to go and the old rivet holes straightened to make it easier to insert the rubber window seal.

I used these little detail hammers that I got from Harbor Freight many years ago and they are perfect for getting into the small channel opening.

It's a royal pain, but if these things don't sit flush there's hell to pay trying to slip on the seal.

The front door edge molding channels were a bit easier, but more corroded. I straitened and stripped them and applied a lot of etching primer to keep them from corroding any more.

Everything stripped and ready for paint --

Cheap Chinese gravity feed detail gun is perfect for this job --

The weather was a nice dry and warm 75º F; perfect for painting outside.

While I was at it I also prepped the left inner fender panel with rubberized undercoat and set it up for paint -

Not very exciting work, but it does get me closer to having the interior trim and upholstery work done.

Tomorrow I have to rivet and glue these channels into place.


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