Author Topic: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 1-28  (Read 8912 times)

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Offline goodfellow

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Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 3-1
« Reply #75 on: January 27, 2018, 01:44:02 PM »
Door assembly: This is one of the most frustrating tasks that any E-Type owner has to face. The doors are are flimsy and the fittings are pure crap. Jaguars were not made toe exacting standards -- in the 1960's exotic sports car world, they rated at the bottom of the quality scale. Nowhere is this more evident than in the doors. The parts and hardware are marginal, and the design is third rate. Putting a door shell together is mind numbing and frustrating, and is further complicated by the fact that documentation for later year E-Type doors is non-existent. -- So here goes!!

After extensive rework and painting, all the studs and hardware need to be thread chased top clean up the threads.



Then the most important piece is to make sure you have a water drain hose inside the door running down from the top to the bottom -- I can't show a photo, but the top drain is visible from the outside of the door close to the hinges. Under this drain (on the inside of the door is a plastic tube that clips inside the door skin (it's hidden and you have to feel around for it with your hands.



Next loosely install the lock mechanism and the guide.



Next very loosely install the two window frame alignment "L" brackets on the studs that protrude inside the the bottom of the door. There is one long and one short bracket -- the short one installs at the from of the door and longer at the rear. The slotted end of the bracket is fastened to the door stud while the round end fastens to the window frame.











Then I inserted the widow regulator into the cavity of the door and loosely used two bolts to attach it on the inner door skin to temporarily get it out of the way of the window and frame (which comes next).



The regulator is just loose, and I have to remind myself that this reinforcing bracket resided underneath the inner door skin wedged between the regulator. This is how it positions (but underneath that inner skin).



Now the window is inserted into the frame and they are both slowly positioned inside the door. It's easier to move the window half way down in the frame to maneuver the lower
window metal track over the lip of the freshly painted door. Once it's clear, the frame can be pushed all the way in.







Next comes the really painful part -- attaching the regulator to the window track itself. At this point I removed the loose bolts that temporarily held the regulator out of the way and freed the regulator. This allows the regulator to freely move independently inside the door. The window is pushed all the way down in the frame and the regulator positioned so that the guides can be inserted into the tracks. This takes patience and maybe a second pair of hands to hold the frame while regulator is moved back and forth inside the door.





Once the regulator is in it's tracks it's important to attach the window frame loosely to the previously installed "L" brackets or the slides can jump out of their tracks.
Now the regulator can be adjusted and repositioned to align with its mounting holes, but before the crank mechanism can be attached, the stiffener must be inserted between the mechanism and the inner doorskin.



Next the door release mechanism is installed in the bottom of the door. It's long arm attaches the door lock mechanism with a clip. To make this job easier, the window is moved half way up in the frame to allow access to the door lock.











Installing the door handle is fairly straight forward -- insert the handle and attack the rod to the lock with a clip -- not a big deal at this point.



The rest is fairly straight forward -- the hardest part is done. I manged aged to get both my doors done this weekend and they will get handed off to the upholsterer for further finishing work.

BUT!! The door frames need to be fitted to the door openings. This is done through the use of door frame shims that are inserted between the upper door edge and the door frame base.





I took note of the shims that were initially installed, but the car doors were extensively reworked -- hence the shims will need to be readjusted to ensure the frame sits evenly in the door opening



Onward!!

 

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Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 3-1
« Reply #75 on: January 27, 2018, 01:44:02 PM »

Offline fflintstone

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Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 1-28
« Reply #76 on: January 28, 2018, 07:25:30 PM »
Glad to see you are back on it.....
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Offline goodfellow

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Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 1-28
« Reply #77 on: February 10, 2018, 07:27:43 PM »
Glad to see you are back on it.....


Thanks Bill --

Offline goodfellow

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Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 1-28
« Reply #78 on: February 17, 2018, 10:04:32 PM »
I screwed up a bit and I realized today that I waited much too long to install this "bear" of a lower radiator hose. I left it off on purpose when I began to reassemble this front end because it made the installation of smaller and more delicate front parts and wiring harnesses much easier. In retrospect it was a mistake because what seemed like such a simple procedure took almost two hours to accomplish.

The problem is this contraption -- a two-piece lower radiator hose connected by a sleeve.



I cut the old hose clamps with an abrasive cutter because they were totally corroded onto the hose.



I cleaned and painted the sleeve and new clamps and a new "OEM" set of hoses were on hand to do this "simple job" -- boy was I wrong!







Jaguar stuffed a great many things into that front section behind the radiator -- there is very little room.





The problem occurred when I tried to attach the top section of hose to the water pump. This section of OEM hose has a wider opening on top (where it attaches to the water pump) than on the bottom (where it attaches to the top of the sleeve). No matter how much I tried, that wider top section could not be forced over the pump outlet. I tried silicone, grease, even engine oil to make that damn thing slide -- no deal.

This is supposed to be a simple install, but out of frustration I finally tried the old hose. It slid on without problem. I measured both hoses and the pump outlet tube and found out that the new "OEM" hose was about 3/16" too small. How do you stretch a thick radiator hose? I tried all kinds of ideas, until I decided to stick the end of the hose in a pot of rapidly boiling water and let it sit there for 15 minutes. Then I ran into the garage, sprayed some silicone on it and it finally slid home.







This is the kind of stuff I hate about new OEM-spec Jag parts. They are not always to spec and often inferior to the original -- and in those cases they cause a great deal of frustration.