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Restorations / Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 1-28
« Last post by goodfellow on February 17, 2018, 10:04:32 PM »
I screwed up a bit and I realized today that I waited much too long to install this "bear" of a lower radiator hose. I left it off on purpose when I began to reassemble this front end because it made the installation of smaller and more delicate front parts and wiring harnesses much easier. In retrospect it was a mistake because what seemed like such a simple procedure took almost two hours to accomplish.

The problem is this contraption -- a two-piece lower radiator hose connected by a sleeve.

I cut the old hose clamps with an abrasive cutter because they were totally corroded onto the hose.

I cleaned and painted the sleeve and new clamps and a new "OEM" set of hoses were on hand to do this "simple job" -- boy was I wrong!

Jaguar stuffed a great many things into that front section behind the radiator -- there is very little room.

The problem occurred when I tried to attach the top section of hose to the water pump. This section of OEM hose has a wider opening on top (where it attaches to the water pump) than on the bottom (where it attaches to the top of the sleeve). No matter how much I tried, that wider top section could not be forced over the pump outlet. I tried silicone, grease, even engine oil to make that damn thing slide -- no deal.

This is supposed to be a simple install, but out of frustration I finally tried the old hose. It slid on without problem. I measured both hoses and the pump outlet tube and found out that the new "OEM" hose was about 3/16" too small. How do you stretch a thick radiator hose? I tried all kinds of ideas, until I decided to stick the end of the hose in a pot of rapidly boiling water and let it sit there for 15 minutes. Then I ran into the garage, sprayed some silicone on it and it finally slid home.

This is the kind of stuff I hate about new OEM-spec Jag parts. They are not always to spec and often inferior to the original -- and in those cases they cause a great deal of frustration.

Restorations / Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 1-28
« Last post by goodfellow on February 10, 2018, 07:27:43 PM »
Glad to see you are back on it.....

Thanks Bill --
Restorations / Cleaning and polishing wire wheels --
« Last post by goodfellow on February 10, 2018, 07:27:10 PM »
Wire wheels are a royal pain to keep clean and to maintain. Hence they get neglected over the years and start to spot rust and corrode. Mine are no exception -- I did neglect them for quite some time, but now that this car is getting completed, the wheels needed a good refurbishment to get rid of the dirt, rust, and pitting.

There are so many methods out on the net that show the process (and with varying degrees of effectiveness I might add) - so I might as well join the crowd and show how I do it. It takes a long tine to do this properly, and my fingers hurt like hell form all the polishing, but it's well worth it to save a good set of wheels.

To start with I hosed the wheels off with soap and water and then with a generous soaking of Simple Green -- after this was completed, this is what I had to start with.

These are all the materials I used to clean the wheel --

Specifically I like the Noxon metal polish -- it smells to high heaven, but works very well

Grease was caked on the inner hub, and I used a plastic molding tool to clean it out and gave it a good soak with Xylene (mineral spirits or carb cleaner will do as well) and got rid of all the grease on the inner hub, and then also wiped down the entire wheel surfaces with Xylene to remove any caked on dirt or grease that the washing didn't get.

The hub cleaned up nice with Xylene --

I also marked the weights and pulled them off the rim

The backside of the wheel was showing some rust and corrosion and decided to tackle that first. I used a die grinder throttled down to 70psi and wire brush to clean the rust from the inner rim. If you go full speed on a die grinder with a wire wheel, the wheel disintegrates in short order -- it can't handle the RPM, and you wind up with wires sticking in your clothes and skin -- or worse.

I used another die grinder (also throttled to 70psi with a small wire wheel to get between the spokes)

Once all the rust was brushed off, I took #0000 fine steel wool and a cheap vibrating toothbrush to apply the Noxon polish to the rim, the spokes, and the hub. The vibrating brush helps get into small nooks and crannies to distribute the polish evenly (Latex gloves are a must with this stuff)

The steel wool did a great job getting at the large areas, but I used a dowel in regular drill to spin on some steel wool and used that method to polish the hidden spokes and the hub. This takes a lot of time to do a thorough job -- but it's worth it for good results.

I cleaned up the residue with Xylene and a clean rag and went on to the next step.

Next I take some Jute rope and soak it in Polishing compound and run the rope between the spokes (back and forth) to clean/polish the parts that the steel wool could not get at.

I keep soaking the rope with compound every few spokes to get good coverage.

Next I cover the entire wheel in polishing compound and use crumpled aluminum foil to distribute and polish the outer rim, spokes and hub. This is the tedious part because it takes a long time to manipulate the foil in the spokes and hub -- I found that the angled back end of a toothbrush helps with manipulating the foil back and forth between the spokes.

Now the rim is cleaned again with Xylene and Mothers Aluminum polish is applied all over the rim surface --


A clean shop rag is used to polish the surface and again the back end of a toothbrush is used to get a rag into the nooks and crannies. I also used a paint stirrer with a paper towel taped to the end to get between the spokes.

Here's the finished backside -- Rust is gone and it shines great.

Lastly -- I cleaned up the wheel weight and attached it back in place where I had marked it.
That was only the backside -- now it's time for the front. Same procedure as the back, but the spokes are closer together on the front, hence it's more time consuming.

The vibrating toothbrush works great on the front sopkes. I bought a pack at COSTCO for a few $$ and they'll help do all five wheels

The same steps were used as with the backside, but I used a variety of small dowels and toothbrush handles to manipulate the rags for cleaning and polishing.

It took almost five hours to do this one wheel, but it shines again --- only four more to go --  :))

Restorations / Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 1-28
« Last post by fflintstone on January 28, 2018, 07:25:30 PM »
Glad to see you are back on it.....
Restorations / Re: Starting the final assembly on the E-Type - updated 3-1
« Last post by goodfellow on January 27, 2018, 01:44:02 PM »
Door assembly: This is one of the most frustrating tasks that any E-Type owner has to face. The doors are are flimsy and the fittings are pure crap. Jaguars were not made toe exacting standards -- in the 1960's exotic sports car world, they rated at the bottom of the quality scale. Nowhere is this more evident than in the doors. The parts and hardware are marginal, and the design is third rate. Putting a door shell together is mind numbing and frustrating, and is further complicated by the fact that documentation for later year E-Type doors is non-existent. -- So here goes!!

After extensive rework and painting, all the studs and hardware need to be thread chased top clean up the threads.

Then the most important piece is to make sure you have a water drain hose inside the door running down from the top to the bottom -- I can't show a photo, but the top drain is visible from the outside of the door close to the hinges. Under this drain (on the inside of the door is a plastic tube that clips inside the door skin (it's hidden and you have to feel around for it with your hands.

Next loosely install the lock mechanism and the guide.

Next very loosely install the two window frame alignment "L" brackets on the studs that protrude inside the the bottom of the door. There is one long and one short bracket -- the short one installs at the from of the door and longer at the rear. The slotted end of the bracket is fastened to the door stud while the round end fastens to the window frame.

Then I inserted the widow regulator into the cavity of the door and loosely used two bolts to attach it on the inner door skin to temporarily get it out of the way of the window and frame (which comes next).

The regulator is just loose, and I have to remind myself that this reinforcing bracket resided underneath the inner door skin wedged between the regulator. This is how it positions (but underneath that inner skin).

Now the window is inserted into the frame and they are both slowly positioned inside the door. It's easier to move the window half way down in the frame to maneuver the lower
window metal track over the lip of the freshly painted door. Once it's clear, the frame can be pushed all the way in.

Next comes the really painful part -- attaching the regulator to the window track itself. At this point I removed the loose bolts that temporarily held the regulator out of the way and freed the regulator. This allows the regulator to freely move independently inside the door. The window is pushed all the way down in the frame and the regulator positioned so that the guides can be inserted into the tracks. This takes patience and maybe a second pair of hands to hold the frame while regulator is moved back and forth inside the door.

Once the regulator is in it's tracks it's important to attach the window frame loosely to the previously installed "L" brackets or the slides can jump out of their tracks.
Now the regulator can be adjusted and repositioned to align with its mounting holes, but before the crank mechanism can be attached, the stiffener must be inserted between the mechanism and the inner doorskin.

Next the door release mechanism is installed in the bottom of the door. It's long arm attaches the door lock mechanism with a clip. To make this job easier, the window is moved half way up in the frame to allow access to the door lock.

Installing the door handle is fairly straight forward -- insert the handle and attack the rod to the lock with a clip -- not a big deal at this point.

The rest is fairly straight forward -- the hardest part is done. I manged aged to get both my doors done this weekend and they will get handed off to the upholsterer for further finishing work.

BUT!! The door frames need to be fitted to the door openings. This is done through the use of door frame shims that are inserted between the upper door edge and the door frame base.

I took note of the shims that were initially installed, but the car doors were extensively reworked -- hence the shims will need to be readjusted to ensure the frame sits evenly in the door opening


Sorry to hear about the job -- but we've all been there. It also seems that if you're a male over the age of 40, getting a new job is almost always a crap shoot. Companies want young and inexpensive workers; they're supposedly better for the bottom the line. One of these days they'll wise up to the fact that older workers are in most cases much more efficient and dependable.

The problem is that up here, most employers are still trying to pay $18 an hour for a highly skilled job that is $26-32 down state.  Their having a tough time now with walmart paying $11.
Tool Crib / New Craftsman 3/8" drive "quick release" extension set -
« Last post by goodfellow on January 20, 2018, 04:07:58 PM »
I needed a new locking extension set for quite some time. I'm currently using a nice HF Taiwanese set, but the retaining collars are sometimes too bulky to get in tight spaces. Since I really love the 1/4" drive Craftsman extension set, I decided to try the 3/8 drive version. Admittedly I was a bit leery of Chinese Craftsman, but after the set arrived and I used it for about a month, I really like it. Fit/finish is top notch -- better than many US chrome sets and definitely a deeper shine.

More streamlines than the HF version -- BTW, the Taiwanese HF versions are excellent tools, just the business end was a bit bulky for some of my uses.

The retention is excellent with many different socket manufcaturers -- I tested SO, MATCO. MAC, Cornwell, Vulcan (Williams) and new/old US Craftsman

The chrome is perfect when compared to some pristine 1970's US made Easco Craftsman exctensions


For $24 delivered, the price is right and the tool is definitely VERY useful in my work.

Sorry to hear about the job -- but we've all been there. It also seems that if you're a male over the age of 40, getting a new job is almost always a crap shoot. Companies want young and inexpensive workers; they're supposedly better for the bottom the line. One of these days they'll wise up to the fact that older workers are in most cases much more efficient and dependable.
Shortly after I posted this, i got the blow off email
Yesterday I finally got an interview at DOW chemical. The biggest employer in Midland. I had been hoping for employment there when I first bought the property in 1998. Moreover, much more so when I moved in unemployed in 2010.
Unfortunately, it seems like you need a PHD to be a janitor there. The 3-hour interview with five people went well, but I really do not know.
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